A River Falls Through It

by Birdie Jaworski

Until the mid-1800s, gristmills in New Mexico were small, primitive, difficult to use, containing two rotating grinding stones powered by water. Called "molinos" in Spanish, early gristmills were most often used to grind the hearty corn grown to make tortillas and tamales. By 1850, wheat flour crept into the local consciousness, and as the population of Mora County grew, farmers added wheat to their crops. The founding of Fort Union increased demand for wheat even more. New Mexico was hooked. Flour became local king.

In 1901, Joseph Fuss built the two-story Cleveland Roller Mill, the last one constructed in northeast New Mexico. Fuss sold the mill to Daniel Cassidy, an Irish immigrant, and by the 1920s, the mill reached peak production in the Mora Valley, with over 500,000 bushels a year being ground through the Cleveland Roller Mill and other smaller local operations.

Today, the Cleveland Mill is part of a historic museum where, once a year during Labor Day weekend, visitors can watch as water once again flows over the massive 18 foot cast iron wheel. This year's Cleveland Millfest, being held this Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m until 5 p.m. each day, offers a celebrated look into the past.

"This is our twentieth anniversary," says Millfest organizer Dan Cassidy, a direct descendant of the original owner. "Last year we did a head count, and realized we had over 3000 people attending the fest. It's gratifying - we know we're doing something right. Folks like to see this piece of history."

Visitors to the mill can feel the weight and groan of Mora River's water against wheel as the machine churns. The process of grinding wheat is deceptively simple. The wheat seed is fed through a first set of roller mill stands, breaking the outer wheat hull. Secondary rolls continue grinding until all possible flour, bran, and germ is extracted. Gravity chutes help move wheat and flour around the mill as part of a semi-automatic transport system. The Mill Museum shows the full production methods as well as a photographic and historical overview of north central New Mexico, emphasizing the wheat farming and milling industry that existed in Mora County until World War II. The three-story adobe will offer two tours each day of this weekend's event at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Sponsored by the Historic Mora Valley Foundation and Mora Valley Chamber of Commerce, the Cleveland Millfest features over 45 artists from New Mexico as well as a great variety of native foods and baked goods, fruits and produce and continuous musical entertainment.

"The dance presentations are always well-received," explains Cassidy. "We put them in the center portion of the day so that everyone can enjoy them. A lot of local kids are involved, it's just wonderful to see. We'll also have barbeque, arts and crafts, all different kinds of foods."

The entertainment begins Saturday at 10 a.m. with Los Dos Amigos, a group of San Miguel County residents who play traditional New Mexico folk and American country including rancheras and old style country western music. Crowd favorite Los Zapateados, a dance group that uses only authentic costumes and dance fold dances from Mexico and New Mexico, will take the stage at 12:30 p.m. with their swirling and emotional homage to local culture. Other performers include singer-songwriters George Adelo and Gwen Lenore, homegrown Mora musical group Nueva Vida, and dance group Ballet Folklorico Arco Iris Fantasticos.

"The mill itself adds something to the fest, the setting, it all works together," muses Cassidy. "We put it all together and package it with arts and crafts. There's magic in this event, and the music has a lot to do with that."

Cleveland Millfest, at the  Cleveland Roller Mill Museum. The museum is located just off NM Hwy. 518 two miles north of Mora, New Mexico near the village of Cleveland.  The Museum is located 160 miles north of Albuquerque, 35 miles south of Angel Fire; 32 miles northwest of Las Vegas; 100 miles north of Santa Fe; 45 miles southwest of Taos. For information call 505 387 2645 or 505 387 6367.
Admission is Free for the entertainment and the arts and crafts area located on the museum grounds. A nominal admission ($3.00) is charged for admittance into the Museum. Parking is $1 per vehicle.