Love and Sugar from El Salvador

by Birdie Jaworski

Beatriz Gibbs behind the counter of Talita's Bakery

Beatriz Gibbs travels in early morning darkness, in the bitter winter cold, to open the doors to her bakery's kitchen. She adds sugar to finely ground flour, mixes her ingredients in big metal bowls as the clock moves from 3 to 4 a.m. Paintings by local artist Floyd Lujan splash color against the wall as Gibbs kneads and stirs. In two months, Gibbs will mark the second anniversary of her dream-come-true, Talita's Bakery, naming it after a story about Jesus waking a sick little girl and saying to her "Talita cumi," which Gibbs says means "blessing and miracle, stand and walk."

Gibbs grew up in Chalatenago, El Salvador. She misses the fruits of her native country, misses the scent of ripe mango, the texture of soft papaya. Her parents traveled to Los Angeles twelve years ago to escape their war-torn countryside, and five years ago Gibbs, her husband, Emiliano, and their five children left the coastal city to settle in Las Vegas.

"We enjoy living in a small community where everything is close by, and you can check on your children easily," says Gibbs. "Las Vegas is so much quieter and safer than L.A., with no real traffic. The cold weather is not my favorite, so I
enjoy spring and summers the most here. We go out to the country for picnics and to enjoy the outdoors. At those times I miss the beauty and nature of El Salvador."

Gibbs carried with her a collection of heritage recipes, instructions for delicate breads and cakes scented with vanilla, with cinnamon and dried fruits. After discovering no Latino bakery in Las Vegas, Gibbs started producing tres leches cakes for friends and family, and the idea of owning her own business began to form. She practiced making pan dulce, the sweet bread of her home country, and as her confidence grew, so did the demand for her homemade treats.

"Right after I opened my bakery, the locals started discovering me," reflects Gibbs. "I began making birthday and special celebration cakes, made from scratch to order. My children help out - it's a family business."

The hours before sunrise find Gibbs baking fresh bread, including marranitos - a molasses-based bread, lemon and cranberry cupcakes, pastelitos filled with pineapple, cherries, and apples, banana nut  bread, banana bread pudding, and her unique cheesy buns. Gibbs' delicacies have a moist, rich, indulgent flavor without the overpowering sweetness of typical American bakery goods. Her simple buns are light, airy, but with enough bite to match any filling. She has begun making tortas, sandwiches on homemade bread filled with lettuce, tomato, ham, turkey, and salami.

Gibbs has expanded to sell other Latino products, like herbs for teas, Mexican traditional candy, Jarritos beverages in glass bottles.

"I am proud to be El Salvadoran here. There is a need for good Latino foods and baked goods. I feel that it is part of my service to offer these to the community," says Gibbs. "I hope to keep expanding, and to offer more Latino foods like soups and condiments. It's good to be a part of the community and to share my knowledge. Everyone needs a little sweetness in their life."

Talita's Bakery, 525 Grand Avenue, is open Tuesday thru Saturday from 8 a.m. till 6 p.m., but Beatriz Gibbs can bake cakes and special orders on any day. Please call 429-3278 for more information or to place an order.

Click on a thumbnail below to see some photos of Beatriz's bakery and goodies: